Method of making coats.



C. J. LARKIN.

METHOD OF MAKING COATS. AIPLIOATION FILED APB. 8,1910.

964,273, Patented Jul 12, 1910.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

Eur/6715657 Warren s'raans Parana ent ies.

CLIFFORD J. LARKIN, OF EVERETT, MASSACHUSETTS.

METHOD OF MAKING COATS.

scams.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, CLIFFORD J. LARKIN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Everett, county of Middlesex, and State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Methods of Making Coats, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

In the manufacture of coats it is now and has been the universal practice to cut the material forming the front of the coat in such a way that when the coat is made the cloth appears to be drawn in toward the neck at the front of the shoulder. While this is no particular detriment when the coat is made of plain cloth, yet when the cloth has a stripe in it, the result is that the stripes curve in toward the neck and disappear under the collar, instead of passing straight up over the shoulder, and if the stripe is a pronounced one this curvature thereof is more or less offensive to the eye and mars the appearance of the coat.

It is the object of my invention to provide a novel method by which a coat can be made so that the stripes in the goods will pass up over the shoulder in a line which may be nearly or quite parallel to the seam by which the sleeve is sewed to the coat front without throwing the coat out of balance or destroying its shape or fit. A coat made in accordance with my invention has a much neater and more attractive appearance than coats as now made, especially if the goods have a pronounced stripe or plaid.

In the drawings wherein I have illus trated my invention, Figure 1 is a view of a coat embodying and made in accordance with my invention; Fig. 2 is a View of a coat made in the ordinary way; Fig. 3 illustrates the way in which the front of the coat embodying my invention is cut; Fig. 4 illustrates the way in which the canvas is cut; Fig. 5 illustrates one side of the front of the coat placed on the canvas; Fig. 6 shows the front of the coat with the shoulder portion worked over into place and secured to the canvas; Fig. 7 illustrates the way in which a coat front has heretofore been out.

In order to give a clearer understanding of my invention I will first refer to the method of making coats now universally in use. In drafting a pattern for thecoat it is the common practice to draw on the paper Specification of Letters Patent.

Application filed April 8, 1910.

Patented July 12, 1910. Serial No. 554,088.

constituting the pattern the back line repre senting the center of the back, and then from the measurements to locate the position of the depth line which is drawn perpendicular to the back line and which 10- cates the depth of the arm scye or the under edge thereof. The position of the front edge of the arm scye and also the position of the shoulder point are then determined from proper measurements, and when the shoulder point has been located, the contour of the coat front is sketched in according to the measurements. There are various rules in use by different tailors in locating the shoulder point, one of which is to lay off from the front of the arm scye edge a distance equal to one-sixth of the breast measure or approximately one-third of the distance between the arm scye edge and the front of the coat), and then to erect a line at this point perpendicular to the depth line and then place the shoulder point at the proper point in this line. The other methods of locating the shoulder point all result in fixing said point at approximately the same place as the method above described. It has heretofore always been thought necessary to locate the shoulder point in approximately this position, that is, so that it will be in a line perpendicular to the depth line and approximately one-third of the distance from the arm'scye edge to the front of the coat, in order to secure the proper balance in the completed coat. When the paper pattern thus sketched out is applied to the cloth for the purpose of cutting the coat front from the cloth, said pattern is laid on the cloth in such a way that the warp threads or stripes of the cloth will run substantially parallel with the front edge of the pattern. After the coat front is cut from a pattern made in this way it will have substantially the shape shown in Fig. 7 wherein 4: is the coat front and 3 designates the lines of the stripe or the direction of A stripes so as to intersect more or less of them, that depending on the distance between the stripes. The gorge 6 for the neck alsoextends across the stripes. The shoulder point shown at 7 is located in a line extending parallel to the stripes which is situated approximately one-third of the distance between the front of the arm scye edge 5 and the front of the coat. It has always been deemed necessary to cut the coat front in this way to secure the proper balance and hang to the completed coat. The result of cutting the coat as shown in Fig. 7 is that when it is completed the stripes over the shoulder will bend or run in toward the neck, as clearly seen in Fig. 2.

In carrying out my improved method of making a coat, I cut the coat front as shown in Fig. 3 with the edge 5 at the arm scye substantially parallel to the stripes 3, or as nearly parallel as it is desired to have the stripes to the arm seam of the finished coat. When the coat front is cut in this way the edge 5 is substantially parallel to the front edge 8 and the shoulder point 7 is situated in a line aa which is considerably nearer the front edge 8 than is the vertical line in which the shoulder point is located when the coat front is cut as in Fig. 7. The canvas or stiffening material 9 is cut as shown in Fig. i, that is, with the edge 10 of the arm scye at a backward inclination corresponding very nearly to the shape and position of the arm scye edge 5 shown in F ,ig. 7 and with the shoulder point 7 0 at some distance back from the line bb which corresponds in position relative to the front edge 8 with the line a-a through the shoulder point in Fig. 3. After the canvas has been cut as above described, it is applied to the coat front as seen in Fig. 5 and the portions of the canvas and coat front below the chest, and which correspond in shape, are stitched or otherwise secured together in usual manner. Fig. 5 shows the relative position of the coat front and canvas when they are thus superposed. The upper part 12 of the coat front when in its natural position occupies a position somewhat to the front of that occupied by the upper part of the canvas.

In carrying out my invention the upper part 12 of the coat front, or that which does not correspond in shape with the corresponding part of the canvas, is worked or stretched backwardly, either before it is applied to the canvas or subsequently thereto, until the shoulder point 7 of the coat front is brought into coincidence with the shoulder point 7 O of the lining, or canvas, and the shoulder edge and arm scye edge 5 of the coat front also are positioned so that they will coincide with the corresponding edges of the canvas. As stated above, this stretching or working of the material of the coat front may be done either before or while it is being applied to the canvas, or it may be partially, at least, accomplished by the manner in which the collar is sewed to the coat front. In either case, after the upper part of the coat front is thus worked backwardly so as to substantially coincide in position with the canvas, said coat front is firmly secured to the canvas in any suitable way. The above described operation of working the material of the coat front backwardly and securing it to the canvas causes the coat front to have the appearance seen in Fig. 6, in which the stripes 3 bend backwardly at their upper ends substantially parallel with the arm scye edge 5. This part of my invention may be carried out so as to cause the upper ends of the stripes to lie more or less parallel to the arm scye edge without changing in any way the principle of the invention.

After the coat front is made in this way, the coat is completed as usual and when done it will have the appearance illustrated in Fig. 1, that is, the stripes 3 will pass up over the shoulder substantially parallel to the seam 16 at the arm scye. A coat made in this way is much more attractive in appearance than one made in the ordinary way, especially if the stripe is a pronounced one, and by making the coat in the manner described it is possible to secure the result shown in Fig. 1 without throwing the coat out of balance, or disturbing in any way the proper hang of it. The correct shape, balance and hang of the coat is secured by the canvas which is cut in the usual way and as the upper part of the coat front is firmly secured to the canvas, its distortion does not affect the shape of the coat. In fact, I have found that it is possible to get a better chest on the coat when it is made in accordance with my invention than when it is made in the ordinary way. It is also possible to embody my invention in so-called skeleton or unlined coats.

Having fully described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. The method of making a coat which consists in cutting the coat front so that the portion below the chest has the usual shape, while the shoulder portion has a shape to bring the shoulder point considerably to the front of the point which said shoulder point will occupy in the completed coat, working or stretching the material of the shoulder portion backwardly so as to bring the shoulder point to the correct position thereby causing the warp threads or stripes in said shoulder portion to bend backwardly relative to the direction of the warp threads or stripes in the remaining portion of the coat front and securin a canvas or facing to the coat front while in such condition so as to preserve the backward bend of the stripes.

2. The method of making a coat front which consists in cutting the front with the shoulder point considerably on the front side of the vertical line which the shoulder point will occupy in the completed coat and With the arm scye edge and front of the coat extending substantially parallel to the warp threads in the cloth, cutting a canvas with the lower portion thereof coinciding in shape with the corresponding'portion of the coat front but with the arm scye edge extending backwardly and at an angle to the front edge Working or stretching the shoulder portion of the coat front backwardly to bring the shoulder point and arm scye edge thereof into coincidence with the shoulder point and arm scye edge of the canvas and securing said coat front firmly to the canvas.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

CLIFFORD J. LARKIN.

Witnesses:

LoUIs O. SMITH, THOMAS J. DRUMMOND. 

